Warrior Heroes, without the fantasy elements, was exactly Warrior Kings. Meanwhile, back at Two Hour Wargames, Warrior Heroes was the fantasy version of Warrior Kings, now also out of print. Ownership of the rules was acquired by John P Kelly, who made the rules available on the Warrior Kings yahoo group and recently released the final version 2 of the rules (heavily updated from version 1). It is about to be released imminently again as Rally Round the King. Any remaining gaps can then be filled with epoxy putty, something I’ll be covering in a later post.The rules I enjoyed the most and highly recommend is Warrior Kings. This is my ruleset of choice and am looking forward to playing lots more games with it. I did make one change to make it play on 2'x2' - I changed the distances from inches to centimetres. Attach the other half and voila! I’ve done a dry fit here, but you should end up with two halves that fit together snugly. When the wire is in, coat the remaining protruding half and the rest of the area to be glued with superglue. You’ll need to do this quickly and firmly (you may even need to tap the wire into the hole by banging it gently against a flat surface) because sometimes the glue can stick before the wire is fully in. First, dip one half of the wire into some superglue and then slot it into the first hole. Only at this point do I do the supergluing. I’ve cut the wire down to an appropriate length, and the wire now fits in both holes. I’ve then fit the other section onto it as you can see, the wire is too long. I’ve done a dry fit of the wire here and put it into the body without superglue. It really doesn’t have to be the right size, but go for too long than too short, as you can subsequently shorten the wire down to the appropriate length. When you’ve drilled your second hole, you can then clip off a piece of wire. I’ve found this too inconvenient in the past, but it might work for you. Then try to put the other piece on top and you’ll end up with a small bit of paint on it, indicating where the hole should go. A method that has worked for other people (not shown here) is to put a piece of wire in the first hole and put a blob of paint at the end. What I usually do is slowly put the two pieces together and try to eyeball where the metal rod will go, then drill there. Making sure both holes are lined up is essential for a good fit, so just check the location before drilling. When you’ve drilled the first hole, move onto the second. Most metal miniatures these days are made of pewter though you’ll need to apply pressure to get make some headway, the material’s still soft enough to get the results you want. When you’ve worked out where to drill, keep the arm holding the miniature propped against your table or workspace and start drilling with the other hand. By choosing to put the hole at the bottom of this ridge, I can more easily see where the second hole needs to be when drilling it. The connection point for the arm and the body on this Spawn, for example, isn't flat but ridged. It’s therefore important to choose a place that you think will be an easy reference point for when it comes to the second piece. The main thing to consider is that wherever you drill, you’ll have to match up the correlating hole on the other component. The first step is to work out which part of the mini you’ll need to drill. You'll also need some good quality superglue. The drill bit size used in this tutorial is 1.0mm – the standard size that most hobby drills come with. A number of companies sell hobby drills, and you can often find one in your friendly local gaming store as well. Since the amount of wire you need for a given miniature is so small, one packet will usually last years and years, depending on how many miniatures you’re pinning.Ĭlippers and a hobby drill. This is just common garden wire that can be brought at most DIY stores.